Custom Sail- Mast Roof Rack Quiver Box For Sale

Custom built aerodynamic shaped, Epoxy Composite Mast - Sail Quiver Box.

Hand built in Belgium in 2008 exclusively for windsurfing because I got tired of having no room in my car for anyone else to go with me due to the car being otherwise packed with windsurfing sails, masts, etc. Using the box I can carry 6-7 sails plus masts inside freeing up my right front passenger seat and lots of extra room inside the back.

The quiver box was four months in the making using epoxy, glass, and some carbon fiber, over a 4mm wood core. It is 10' long overall with 9'6"of inside usable space. It will carry sails up to 11.0 and masts up to 530cm long inside. Amazingly for its size it is only 38 pounds empty weight! Compare that to the 45-60 pound Tule and Yakima roof top boxes which are at least 2 feet shorter in length!! The rear rack attachment brackets can be extended to lift rear of box up off the rear roof rack allowing the car's rear hatch to fully open.

It is currently set up for the round bar Yakima racks with a 5' spread between front and rear racks. However, the box attachments can be altered to fit other rack systems.

Newly born with shiny new paint job. April 2008

Rear View - Note inside latch of key lock.

6-7 sails plus masts can be put inside!

Note the aluminum side brackets that lock the box to the rear roof rack bar but allow easy release.

Note the rear box lifted by the aluminum lift brackets to allow opening of the rear hatch of the car.

SUP "Test" Paddle Making

Now that I have got a SUP (Stand Up Paddleboard), I wanted to make my own paddle. Good carbon paddles cost around $300.00 and I knew that with my experience working with epoxy, fiberglass, carbon fiber and other composite materials, that I could make my own. Plus, several windsurfing friends of mine made their own beautiful carbon paddles so I wanted to give it a try.

Since I did not want to spend a lot of money on a carbon shaft on my first "test" SUP paddle, and did not have ready access where I currently live to thin foam sheets to make the blade from, I decided to just make it with a lightweight wood core. Plus I decided to just use scrap pieces of carbon, kevlar, and fiberglass cloth I have remaining from previous projects.

I knew the end result would be heavier than a foam core carbon blade and shaft paddle but I felt confident I could build one that would still be light enough to be good for paddling until I have time to build my next all carbon paddle.

To begin I made a template for the paddle blade based on the general shape and size of most commercially available paddles. I then transferred that to a piece of 4mm (3/16") thickness plywood.

4mm plywood

Then I applied a single layer of 4 ounce bi-directional E glass to both sides of the blade and then began to work on the shaft. (No photos of this step.)

For the shaft I found a lightweight wood dowel about 6' long and about 1 1/8" diameter which seemed about right.

The photos now follow the process.

4mm plywood used to make 12 degree paddle shaft cutting jig.

Another view of the 12 degree jig.

After making a plywood jig to allow me to cut the paddle shaft at the desired 12 degree angle, I used my favorite Japanese razor saw to cut the shaft following the angle on the jig.

The shaft now cut at 12 degrees.

Jury rigged jig to hold down the cut paddle shaft to allow epoxying to the paddle blade at the proper 12 degree angle. I used a mixture of epoxy and West Systems 406 Collodial Silica filler to make a very strong glue joint.

Side view of the shaft to blade hold down jig.

Blade now epoxied to the shaft at 12 degree angle.

Epoxying on plywood shaft doubler behind the end point of the blade to allow extra strength once reinforced with carbon fiber and glass at the critical blade to shaft joint.


West Systems Microlight Filler # 410 used to fill in voids and depressions in the shaft to blade epoxy joint. Too be sanded smooth after hardening.

Shaft and blade now ready for carbon reinforcement.

Uni-Directional Carbon Fiber cloth alongside shaft and paddle blade and ready for epoxying to the paddle. Uni-Directional cloth will give superior strength to paddle to resist excessive bending at the shaft to paddle joint as well as additional overall paddle strength.


Uni-directional carbon applied along mid- axis of paddle blade and shaft and then reinforced with pieces of 5.7 ounce/sq yard bi-directional carbon cloth. Also you can see the application of "peel ply" dacron cloth over the layup. This will peel right off when the expoxy has hardended leaving a much smoother surface, compression down smoothly the carbon cloth end fibers, and resulting in much less sanding and filling needed latter.

(Note: When I make the next all carbon paddle I will use a single ply of uni such as shown above and then additional plys of 5.7 bi-directional cloth to completely cover the top and bottom surfaces of the blade and extending up the paddle shaft a short distance to provide additional strength, torsion and bending resistance. I will not need to use 4 ounce E-glass on the paddle blade then since the carbon cloth will be plenty strong.)


The opposite side of the blade and shaft getting the uni-directional carbon and bi-directional reinforcement. Also, note the use of the "peel ply" again.


Too provide increased ding and damage resistance to the paddle blade edges I decided to add a layer or 2.5 ounce / sq. yard kevlar cloth. I cut it on the "Bias" (45 degrees to the fiber orientation) so that it would much more easily stretch tightly around the edge of the blade as well as follow the curve of the blade.

Kevlar cloth now applied to one side of the blade and ready to be wet out with resin on the edge and opposite side.

View of kevlar cloth edge strip now completely wet out on both sides of the paddle.

Edge view of the paddle with the wet out kevlar cloth.

Now adding additional layer of 4 ounce glass over the paddle blade and kevlar cloth. Note: After doing this step it was apparent that the underlying kevlar cloth created a ridge depression in the overlaying fiberglass all around where the edge of the kevlar met the glass. This would require some filler later. Lesson learned: Add kevlar first to paddle shaft then add carbon cloth plys over it.

Side view of paddle shaft to blade joint after applicaton of carbon reinforcement and West System 410 Microlight Filler, and subsequent dry and wet sanding.


View of blade after filling with microlight filler and dry/wet sanding smooth.




T-Handle made out of piece of cut off shaft wood dowel and epoxied onto shaft with mixture of resin and Collodial Silica filler.


Another view of the paddle after application of microlight filler and dry/wet sanding.

Just another view

View of completed paddle dry and wet sanded and ready for primer paint.

Note: I used a layer of 4 ounce bi-directional E-Glass in a single wrap around the entire length of the paddle shaft to give it additional strength and stiffness. The wood alone was too bendy and would be prone to breaking otherwise. Once I make the all carbon paddle with a carbon shaft, of course this step will be unnecessary.

Paddle blade and lower shaft with auto-primer paint to fill in small voids. Will be wet sanded with 220 grit wet paper after drying.

Completed paddle after painting.

Note: Years of work and familiarity with composite hang glider and knowledge of composite construction of sailplanes makes me very hesitant to leave any epoxy and/or carbon surface unpainted. This is because UV and sunlight in general can weaken the epoxy composite matrix over time and if left in the sun cause enough heat build up to actually soften the resin matrix enough to cause warping.



Side view of paddle blade with addition of black plastic edge guard glued onto the paddle to further protect both paddle and board from dings.

Also note the use of SOLAS (Safety of Life At Sea) reflective tape. Could be used for helping to signal rescue craft in an emergency.

Just another view of the finished paddle blade.

View of complete paddle ready to go.

Next I will post some photos of the paddle getting its first real water tests.

Windsurfing Mast Kevlar Wrap Protection

For the last 10 years I have been applying a wrap of light weight Kevlar bi-directional cloth to my carbon windsurfing masts to protect them for wear and abrasion where the boom attaches to the mast. I have found this to be a very effective method to prevent mast damage over time. It is also interesting to note that the famous American windsurfing wave mast maker “POWEREX” has also been using a Kevlar wrap around the boom area of their RDM wave masts for the last few years to give them added protection from boom to mast wear.
I am now also going to experiment with doing the same thing in the area where my race sail cambers mate with the mast and cause wear from the constant back and forth rotation over time on the masts.

The materials you need for this are:

1. Lightweight (1.7 – 2.5 ounce/square yard) bi-directional weave Kevlar cloth

2.5 Ounce/Sq.yd bi-directional Kevlar cloth

2. Kevlar cutting scissors or shears

Kevlar Cutting Scissors

3. Quality 2 part Epoxy resin and hardener system
4. Roll of 2-3” wide “Peel Ply” Dacron cloth (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/peelply.php)

Peel Ply

5. 60, 100,120 -150 grit dry sand paper
6. 220 grit wet/dry sand paper
7. Black enamel spray paint
8. Epoxy mixing cups, protective latex gloves, safety glasses,
9. Acetone for cleaning up wet epoxy resin and mix spills etc.
10. Plastic “Squeeges” and small disposable paint brushes

Plastic squeegees and disposable epoxy brush

11. Light weight epoxy filler. I use West System Microlight 410. See: http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/productinfo/guide/index.htm or
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/microlight.php

12. Epoxy scraper

The process to apply the Kevlar is as follows:

Identify the high and low boom attachment points on your mast and determine distance between the two. Then add about 4” (10cm) to the overall measurement. This is to allow some of the Kevlar wrap to extend a little about and below the boom attachment area on the mast. I typically cover about a 16”(40.5cm) section of my mast.

Measure the circumference of the mast by wrapping a piece of paper around it in the area where the Kevlar wrap will be applied. Allow for about a ½” (1.5cm) overlap.

Lay out Kevlar wrap on clean paper or cloth to prevent dirt or other contaminants to touch it. (Keep in clean). Using a felt tipped pen and ruler, mark out a section of the cloth (Length x width) based on your measurements. Then using your Kevlar scissors*, cut the cloth carefully. Once cut handle carefully and don’t stretch the cloth out of shape. Set is aside for later use. (Note: Kevlar is very tough and will quickly dull a pair of regular scissors)

Using plastic tape wrap tape around mast about 1 cm above and below the upper and lower measurement marks you will use to determine where the Kevlar cloth will be applied on the mast. Then wrap newspaper around the mast for about 40 cm above and below the tape. Use more tape to keep the newspaper on and seal the edges of the paper. This is to prevent accidentally getting wet epoxy etc. on the mast in places you don’t want it.

Take 120 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the entire surface of the mast all around where the Kevlar wrap will be applied. Only sand enough to just rough up the surface. Don’t cut into the carbon fibers themselves. The purpose of this process is to create more surface area for the epoxy resin to bond to the surface of the mast.

After sanding brush off all sanding dust and then use a damp cloth to wipe off remaining sanding dust. Finally use cloth dampened with acetone to wipe off the area again. This will get rid of any skin oil, or other substances that may inhibit getting a good bond between the epoxy resin and the mast.

Support the mast up on blocks so that you can rotate it around and easily reach underneath it as you apply the Kevlar wrap.

Using small pieces of tape, tape the long edge of the Kevlar cloth to the mast area you are going to cover.

Mix your epoxy resin and hardner according to instructions. Then using your small brush begin painting on a thin layer of epoxy onto the Kevlar cloth. As it saturates the cloth use your squeegee to spread it out evenly and ensure it is pressed down and has completely wetted out the cloth.

Continue this process as you rotate the mast around wetting out the Kevlar wrap more and more until you are almost at the edge that has been taped. Then carefully remove the tape holding the edge of the cloth and continue wetting out the Kevlar wrap. Let the edges overlap and again use your squeegee to smooth out the overlap.

Once you are finished applying the epoxy resin to the cloth and have smoothed and straightened it all out the best you can then you are ready for peel ply.

Using your plastic tape, apply a wrap of tape around each end of the Kevlar wrap. You only want the tape to overlap the Kevlar by about .75 -1cm max. This is to ensure that the edge threads of the Kevlar cloth will be epoxied down flat against the mast and will reduce the need to add more filler and sanding later.

Cut lengths of “peel ply” 10 cm’s or so longer than the Kevlar wrap. Lay one along the wrap and use your squeegee to wet it out with the epoxy resin mix already applied to the Kevlar. Also use your brush to apply a little more epoxy to the outside of the peel ply in areas where there is not enough resin underneath to fully wet it out. You may need three lengths of peel ply to cover the entire circumference of the mast.

Wait 24 hours for the epoxy to fully harden. Pull the “peel ply” off. The peel ply will smooth out and help evenly fill the weave of the Kevlar cloth resulting in less filling and sanding later.
Pull or cut off tape and newspaper.

Now use an epoxy scraper to carefully scrape down any hardened epoxy bubbles. Ridges, bumps etc. Use caution not to scrape into the Kevlar cloth.
Wipe dust and wipe again with acetone. Reapply newspaper and tape about 1 cm higher and lower than before.

Mix epoxy resin and hardener according to instructions. Add lightweight epoxy filler and stir mix until it is a smooth, tooth paste consistency type mix. Use squeegee to spread the paste all over the Kevlar wrap area. Ensure all low areas and weave of cloth are filled. Smooth off as best as possible and remove excess to avoid more sanding that you need to do.

Filler applied and hardened. Ready for sanding
Let harden 24 hours. Then starting with 60 grit sand paper and sanding block, sand down thick high areas. Use caution not to sand too deeply or into Kevlar. After this, use 100 grit, then 120 or 150 grit to continue to sand down most of the filler all around the wrap. Again, use caution not to sand into the Kevlar cloth.

Try to sand the top and bottom sections so that you “taper” the filler from the edge of the Kevlar wrap down to the mast carbon surface. Note: You cannot sand Kevlar so be careful. If you see a “fuzzy” texture appear you have sanded into the Kevlar.

Once satisfied with above sanding and smoothing. Wipe off all dust and again wipe with acetone. Let dry thoroughly then use your black spray paint to cover entire surface area of the wrap.
Once dry use 220 wet sandpaper with water, to lightly sand again the painted area. This will additionally smooth out remaining rough or high spots. After drying repaint additional time.

Once paint has thoroughly dried and hardened, go sailing and enjoy the knowledge that your mast is now protected from boom wear for many years to come.

GOOD WINDS!